For thousands of years acupuncture has been used to re-balance the total energy system of animals’ bodies to facilitate health and healing. It effectively treats many varied conditions such as arthritis, disc disease, nerve pain, kidney failure, liver failure, cancer, and heart disease to name a few.
According to Eastern medicine, when an animal is healthy, there is a strong and even circulation of energy, life-force, or Chi which runs along well defined channels on the body surface and deeper within the body cavities. These channels are called meridians. These meridians are associated with internal organs, muscular and joint structures, and the nervous system. Acupuncture points lie within the meridians, and are areas from which the flow of Chi can be influenced. Thus influencing the associated organs, joints and the like.
For those who prefer to look at this from a more scientific point of view, we can shift and assess acupuncture from a western viewpoint. Specific acupuncture point stimulation has been shown to produce many measurable results within the body. These include increasing oxygenation and blood supply to areas treated; aiding in production of endogenous cortisone and other anti-inflammatory substances; releasing internally produced pain killers such as endorphins; and improving immunity by increasing white blood cell and antibody production.
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Ahhh the dreaded flea.
Know your enemy
By the time you can identify fleas on your pet, it is likely that your home is already infested. While adult fleas reside on your pets, the earlier life stages of the fleas live and grow in your carpets, pets’ bedding, etc. A single female flea can lay 10 to 50 eggs per day and upwards of 2000 eggs in her lifetime. Thus one adult flea can literally lead to an infestation of tens of thousands. Only 1% of the flea population will actually live on your pets which leaves the other 99% lurking in your house and yard in various live stages. The adult female will lay eggs on your pet, who will then act something like a salt shaker, spreading the eggs in the house. The larval stage will emerge within 1 to 10 days. The flea will remain in this stage for 5 to 11 days. This stage is the period of vulnerability where you can kill the juvenile pest. Next the flea will spin a cocoon where they will safely rest for one day to six months. During this stage your only hope is to vacuum or wash bedding where the cocoon lies. The flea will remain in the protective cocoon until conditions are right and then emerge to begin the life-cycle all over again..
Now you understand why flea bombs or one time sprays and treatments do not work to rid you of your problem. These products only kill the adult and larval stages of the flea population leaving 8 to 10% of the population to later emerge from their cocoons and then we begin again.
Treatment options
Treatment options vary widely. There are a number of effective chemical flea treatments these days and generally they are much less toxic than the older organophosphate type treatments. Many of these newer treatments work in ways that are specific to fleas and will not affect mammals (dogs,cats,people). That said, side effects are seen and recognized with all of these treatments and many people continue looking for alternatives.
Arming Your Pet for Battle
Let me first begin with a note that healthier animals DO repel fleas better and lets further this by recognizing that nutrition is the foundation for health. Efforts to improve your pet”s nutrition and supplement with a vitamin, preferably a whole food supplement such as Juice Plus can help your pet repel these pests and greatly reduce your chances for re-infestation in the future. Some supplements of particular value when fighting fleas include Fatty acid supplements to improve your pet’s skin and hair coat, Probiotics and Digestive enzymes to help your pet make the most of his meal, Garlic and Brewers yeast will make your pet “less tasty”.
Of course this will not fix your immediate problem so let,s continue…
The Battle Begins
There are numerous natural treatments for fleas. I will try to talk about some of the more reliable options that are out there. Generally, when treating for fleas, you need to think of both killing the adults that are on your pets and also the younger life stages that live in your house. As I mentioned earlier, the pupal stage that exists in your home is sheltered in a cocoon and is almost indestructible. To complete eradication, you need to encourage these pupa to hatch by increasing the temperature in the house and allowing the animals to move around freely. Both heat and exhaled carbon dioxide will stimulate hatching. These young adults, ready for their first blood meal, will quickly jump on your pets and can then be killed.
The Battle in the Home
In the home, begin simply by washing all bedding that the pets sleep on and thoroughly vacuuming the house. You can put moth balls or borax in the vacuum cleaner bag or better yet dispose of the bag outside immediately after vacuuming. A safe cleaning solution for surfaces in the house can be made with 1 cup rubbing alcohol, 1 cup distilled water, 5 to 10 drops lavender, and 5 to 10 drops peppermint oil. Finally, at night, set up flea traps in areas needed. To do this you need a bright night light or a table lamp placed on the floor. Place shallow bowls of soapy water around the lights. The fleas will be stimulated to hatch out and come to the heat of the light and will die in the water baths. This will work most effectively if there is not another heat source in the room- animal or other.
Boric acid is a very effective way to treat the home. Boron is generally considered safe with at least limited exposure. What I consider Flea Busters signature product is a borate powder to spread throughout the home. They claim it is 33% less toxic than regular boric acid. This works by drying, or desiccating, the younger life stages of the flea.
The Battle on your Pet
Topically, a simple bath in any soap will kill many of the fleas on your pet. Follow this up with a good flea combing to brush out the remaining slowed or stunned fleas. I often recommend Neem shampoos. The neem seed is generally considered safe although there are reports of neurologic toxicity when infants and young children have ingested neem products. There are also neem sprays and powders that you can use to kill those fleas who linger or hatch out after the bath.
Dips made with 3 Tablespoons of Apple Cider Vinegar per gallon of water are sometimes helpful. I have also had clients use a solution of 1% hydrogen peroxide saturated with borate powder. Other people use Avon Skin So Soft at a concentration of 2 oz per quart of water to use to dip or spray.
Dr. Pitcairin recommends making a flea powder with one part each eucalyptus, rosemary, fennel, yellow dock, wormwood and rue. Use as many of these as you can find, put them in a shaker bottle and apply liberally as needed.
Many people like to use essential oils to treat fleas naturally. PLEASE remember that natural does not automatically translate to safe. Sassafrass and Pennyroyal oils have both shown efficacy in killing fleas but both can cause skin irritation and pennyroyal oil can cause liver and neurologic damage and can even be deadly when ingested. What ever you put on your pet topically, you shouldexpect to be consumed as your pet licks and cleans himself.
Orally you can dose garlic safely at 1 clove per 40# per day for most animals. Do be aware that garlic in excess can be toxic to dogs and cats and please check with your veterinarian to be sure that this dose would be safe for your pet. 1/2 teaspoon of brewers yeast per day can be dosed to cats. 1 teaspoon per day for a small dog up to 2 heaping teaspoons per day for a large dog.
The Battle in the Yard
The yard can be a source of re-infestation, so do not forget to address this as well. Squirrels and other hosts are constantly spreading flea eggs where ever they roam. To begin, keeping the yard free of debris will help. Even a thorough watering can drown the larval stages. Using a nematode product is another non-toxic method to explore. Sold commercially as Flea Busters nematodes, Interrupt and Flea Halt, these products are quite effective. These nematodes have wonderful appetites and love to help you clear your yard of juvenile fleas. Many people also spread diatomaceous earth on their lawns. Be careful to limit exposure to the dust when applying.
Chemical Treatments
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, you need some help from science. One of the breakthroughs of the newer flea control medications is that one product will affect both the adult population on the animal and also the earlier life stages living in the house. Of these products, I find Advantage to be the safest and most effective option. I am by no means suggesting that Advantage is a natural product or that it is without side effects. That said, many of my clients have not been able to win the battle naturally or are looking for an easier way to treat fleas that is not too toxic and Advantage seems to fit the bill. Given busy schedules and lives, regular pet bathing and more extensive house treatments may not be an option or just may not be working for you. If this is the case in your situation, do not fret. Try to minimize applications. For those living with animals who do not have severe flea allergies, I often recommend waiting until you see the first signs of fleas to treat. Treat with chemicals when things get out of hand and try to use the more natural means to decrease your dependence on chemicals.
One of the most common problems presented to all veternarians is the itchy pet, and as a holistic practitioner, the same holds true. Most often the source of itch is allergies. With conventional medicine, the treatment is often suppression and in difficult cases this can mean endless rounds of antibiotics and steroids. As clients and veterinarians become frustrated, they often begin to look for alternatives.
Lets begin by looking at the different causes of allergies and discuss the ways in which these can be diagnosed. General treatment recommendations will be given when possible, but given the difficult nature of these conditions, treatments often need to be individual patient based to be effective.
Allergies can be to fleas, food or the environment. All of these conditions can look very similar to each other as well to other disease processes that affect the skin. A veterinarian should be consulted to be sure that your pet does not have mites, an infection, or other diagnosable problem before concluding that allergies are the culprit. Keep in mind that even for a proficient veterinarian, diagnosis can sometimes be harder than you would imagine. These conditions are not mutually exclusive, and often a bacterial infection is actually caused by an underlying problem such as allergies.
This is not to say the skin problems can not be adequately diagnosed. There are often differences in the history or in the pattern of itch that is suggestive of one cause of disease or another, and with a good history and exam your veterinarian will be well on the way to determining the cause of your pet’s discomfort. For example, inhalant allergies in dogs (allergies caused by pollens, trees, molds or grasses) tend to be seasonal and often include itchy feet and ear infections as part of the history. Cats do not seem to suffer as much from inhalant allergies as do their canine counterparts. Flea allergies tend to concentrate around the tail base and stomach in dogs and often cats as well. Finally, with food allergies, you see year round problems which may show signs predominantly around the mouth, ears and anus.
I do encourage clients to work up the cause of the allergy. If an allergen can be identified, a change in environment or husbandry can improve the situation and certainly changing the diet is far simpler and better for your pet than forever fighting an allergy to the chicken you feed each day. Different allergies will need to be diagnosed in different ways. For example inhalant allergies can be readily diagnosed by a blood test while food allergies require a diet trial. Common food allergens in animals include protein sources such as meat and dairy as well as corn and wheat to name a few. A hypoallergenic food trial which lasts two to three months may be needed to determine whether a diet change may result in improvement in the skin condition. This diet needs to contain ingredients that the animal has not eaten before and thus has not had a chance to develop and allergy to. This food is most likely going to need to be homemade or purchased as a prescription food as most “lamb and rice” type formulas that you find in the pet store will have other ingredients in them which could invalidate your diet trial. Please note that food allergies can not be accurately diagnosed by blood tests. Many of these tests are available but are of little to no diagnostic value.
One last note regarding food. There are many animals whose conditions improve dramatically when taken off of processed food and are put on homemade. These changes may take a while to notice or may be almost immediate. I regularly see patients with frustrating skin problems who show such improvement.
Flea allergies are usually diagnosed by history, observation of the pattern of itch and finding evidence of fleas. Often this is seen as “flea dirt” which is actually flea excrement. This excrement does in fact resemble dirt. If you are unsure, you can be differentiate flea dirt from garden dirt by placing a small amount on a white cloth or towel and then wetting the dirt and towel. Flea dirt well run red onto the towel as it is actually digested blood.
There are numerous ways to combat fleas naturally. See post on Fighting fleas naturally. These methods do, however, tend to be more labor intensive and may prove insufficient to eradicate a stubborn flea problem. Of the pharmaceutical products out there, I find advantage to be the safest and most effective. This product is designed to kill fleas on the animal and, when the treated pet sheds skin cells it will kill younger life stages in the house as well.
NOTE:Finding evidence of fleas can be especially difficult on cats. They tend to be fastidious groomers and can also have severe, body wide, reactions to even one flea.
Inhalant allergies can be readily diagnosed by a simple blood test. The difficulty comes after diagnosis. Some of my clients choose to try allergy injections which can work effectively in about 60% to 65% of animals in my experience. In other animals, treatment involves detoxification, improving the quality of the animal’s diet, boosting the immune system with acupuncture and supplements, and using Chinese herbs to both control the symptoms and help the animal become less reactive to the allergen. This is a long term process. These problems have often been ongoing for years and have been driven deeper still into the body by masking signs with the “anti” system of repeated doses of anti-biotics and anti-inflammatories. Animals treated naturally, will see their allergy reactions becoming less severe year after year as they work toward “health”.
A daily diet should consist of four parts protein to one- two parts carbohydrates
This diet can be fed raw or lightly cooked depending on your cat and situation. Be sure never to feed any animal cooked bones. Always chop finely or blenderize raw vegetables to break down cell walls and make them digestible for your feline friend.
One part of protein is equal to
2 oz meat or fish
1 medium egg
1/2 cup yogurt- note that 1/2 cup of yogurt counts as 1 unit of carbohydrate as well
1/3 cup cottage cheese- note that 1/3 cup of cottage cheese counts as 1 unit of carbohydrate as well
2 oz organ meat-you can feed up to one unit of organ meat several times a week if desired.
Carbohydrates
You will need to feed 1 to 2 units of carbohydrates per day
One part of carbohydrate is equal to
1 cup vegetables such as-broccoli, brussel sprouts, greenbeans, peas, cabbage, spinich, squashes
1/2 cup fruits such as-melons, berries, bananas, tomatoes, apples. Also carrots at 1/2 cup.
1/4 cup cooked beans, lentils or chick peas
1/3 cup of grains such as-oatmeal or barley can be added if you wish. These are the best of the grain type carbohydrates for a cat but note that grains in general are the least favorable type of carbohydrate. Try to limit or avoid these carbohydrates if your cat allows . Whole wheat pasta or brown rice are other options although not preferred.
Supplements
1/2 teaspoon bone meal
multivitamin for cats- whole food source is preferred. Your cat should be supplemented with 50-100 mg of taurine per day depending on the size of cat. Meat loses much of its taurine content when cooked. Check your multi to see if it is supplied or if you need an additional supplement.
500-1000 mg fish oil
antioxidant as directed for felines
Please note that this diet will not be adequate or appropriate for all cats. Be sure to check with your veterinarian before begining this or any other new diet for your cat.
Feeding your canine or feline friend a balanced diet does not need to be that difficult, and contrary to popular belief, the ideal dog or cat food diet does not necessarily come from either a bag or a can. You can prepare a healthy diet for your pets just as you do for the rest of your family and your pets will thrive. That said, there is not one diet the is right for all animals. Raw vs. cooked; chicken vs beef; our animals are very different both inside and out and just because a particular diet is fabulous for your neighbors dog, does not mean that it will be right for yours. For example, an energetically “damp” animal would not be expected to do well on raw food. An allergic animal may not be able to process turkey or corn. Your veterinarian may be able to give you some pointers of where to start and which foods to avoid but ultimately, you will figure out by trial and observation what is best for your pet. Some supplements are necessary to balance any diet, and you should always work from a diet framework to be sure that you are aware of the differing needs of dogs and cats systems.
I believe that variety is key to any healthy diet. This is very different from what many veterinarians believe, I realize. Often a single food is advocated to be fed exclusively. And this may be needed for a diet trial or a very sensitive animal who can not tolerate a variety of foods, but I do not see this as the norm. There are theories that state that varying foods will contribute to your cat or dog becoming picky eater. This, however, makes no logical sense to me and the reality is that there are dogs and cats who are picky eaters who have always been fed the same food and have just never eaten well and others who receive a varied diet and develop picky eating habits. Lets step back for a moment and think about feeding anyone or anything. If you sit your child down to a dinner of chicken, broccoli, brown rice and cantaloupe, you should pat yourself on the back for providing a well balanced nutritious meal. If, however, you feed this same meal three times a day throughout your child’s life, you would obviously expect problems. First, deficiencies are likely to become evident. Beyond this, no one would be surprised to hear that the child is tiring of this meal. We readily recognize that the key to healthy eating is variety for ourselves.
To encourage your pets to develop and maintain good eating habits, I believe that you need to introduce a variety of different foods over time. Favorites can certainly be used repeatedly, but don’t be afraid of change. At the same time, and again, like with your child, if you provide a meal that is generally considered acceptable, you should expect it to be eaten. Bending over backwards to let your pet dictate the favorite and only acceptable meal of the moment will encourage picky habits. If you have a picky eater, skipping or not eating a particular meal well, may not necessarily be a major problem. This is of course assuming that the animal otherwise seems healthy and happy. On the other hand, you must be very careful with animals who are very young or very small as their bodies may not be able to handle missing a feeding. Furthermore, cats in particular should not be allowed to skip multiple meals as they can develop a particular and potentially deadly problem with their livers. This is especially a problem for overweight felines.
To continue with the controversy, the next question that often arises is whether or not to cook home prepared food or feed it raw. As with any change in your pets routine, consult your veterinarian for specific recommendations about your particular pet. There are many veterinarians who are very uncomfortable with raw feeding, and I will not say that all of their fears are unfounded, but I also recognize that there are risks with any food you feed. Aside from the many recent recalls, I have seen a dog choke and almost die from inhaling a piece of kibble that got lodged in his trachea. And that is not to say that kibble kills dogs, but to recognize that things can happen regardless of your diet choices.
With raw food, there are some realities. The first concern is feeding whole bones. If you are feeding chicken wings, necks, or other unground bone as a calcium source, you need to be sure that your animal is chewing the bones well before swallowing. “Gulpers” should never be offered whole bones.The second big concern with raw feeding is contaminated meat- salmonella or other bacteria which would normally be killed when cooking the food. You should know that there aredifferent ways to prepare your meat to minimize these risks and research is definitely in order if you are inexperienced in raw food preparation to minimize your risks. Many of my clients like the idea of raw feeding but are uncomfortable with the actual feeding practice. A great solution can be to get one of the balanced frozen raw foods on the market. The bones are ground and the diet is frozen immediately after processing to minimize chance of bacterial growth. Finally, and obviously, with any raw food, all surfaces must be washed to avoid the spread of bacteria. This includes the dog bowl. Please be especially aware of this if you have children in the house.
The biggest concern raised by veterinarians in regards to home cooking is whether or not the diet is balanced. You do need to supplement, meat is not a complete diet in and of its self, but it is not that difficult to balance your pets meals. And then comes the cardinal rule when feeding real food to dogs and cats. NEVER FEED COOKED BONES OF ANY SORT. These are sharp and will splinter when eaten. They are very dangerous. Be mindful that you also need to avoid onions, grapes and raisins, and limit consumption of garlic. Fried and spicy foods are not appropriate either.
If you do embark on either raw feeding or home cooking, do your homework, and discuss your plans with your veterinarian before beginning. If your veterinarian is unable to support your choices, it may be worth searching out another vet with whom you can discuss diet options. Good nutrition is a cornerstone of health and it is important that you can have open and honest discussions about this with your chosen veterinarian. I believe it is one of the most overlooked aspects of veterinary medicine. Once you begin feeding “real” foods to your pets, you may be amazed at the changes that you see in your pet.
What is holistic veterinary medicine?
Holistic medicine is a term that means different things to different people. I call myself a holistic practitioner and by that I mean to convey two different things. First is that I look at the whole of the animal and work to come to a treatment plan that will benefit my entire patient and not just address one presenting complaint. Secondly, I will use the whole of medicine to come up with the best treatment plan possible.
Many veterinarians use different terms to convey this same or a similar sentiment. Alternative veterinary medicine, complimentary veterinary medicine, integrative veterinary medicine are but some of the different terms you may come across. I could use any of them comfortably but I feel that holistic medicine best conveys my attitude toward medicine.
Many of my patients come to me from conventional practices and are already involved with a treatment plan. Arthritis cases are on non-steroidal anti-inflammatories, seizure cases on phenobarbital, neurologic and cancer cases have often been prescribed steroids. And I do not feel that these animals have necessarily been done a disservice or that the conventional medications are even a big problem. My ultimate goal in practice is to improve the quality of life of my patients, and if that means steroids, antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, seizure medication or the like- they should have them. Western medicine is not the enemy. It is, however, but one of the many branches of medicine, and in many cases, it does not have all of the answers.
I will not typically pull animals off of previously prescribed medications when they come to me. This is assuming that what is presently prescribed is actually improving the overall quality of the patients lives. In such cases, I will often begin by adding in supplements, herbals, spinal manipulation, acupuncture, and/or homotoxicology remedies; and addressing diet and lifestyle issues in an effort to further improvements or decrease the dependence on the conventional medications. It is only after we see gains, or I feel that an animal is stabilized with the complementary modalities that I will talk to clients and often their regular veterianarians about reassessing the need for conventional medications.
The modalities chosen to achieve this end can depend on the presenting condition of concern, the patients overall condition and energy, owners constraints, and animal temperament. Some animals have conditions that would likely benefit greatly from acupuncture or manipulation, but the animal is not one who will do well with repeated visits to the veterinary office. Others will not take supplements/medications from their owners at home which limits choices of treatments to compliment the in hands on therapies. All cases have their challenges, but ultimately I need to be able to look each animal in the eye and feel confident that what I am doing is a part of a treatment plan aimed at health.
We must always remember that it is the quality and not the quantity of life that makes it so precious.
The year 2007 did not start very well for our golden/lab/chow mix companion dog Yogi. He had just turned 10 in December and had been in general good health until one day in the second week of January.
He jumped down off the sofa and yipped, then came up lame in his left front leg, unable to put any weight on it. Almost as soon as it happened, it was fine. He had had strains and sprains before but when the same thing happened again after a few days, I took him to the local veterinary emergency clinic. After x-rays and an exam, the vet diagnosed arthritis, recommended crate rest for a week, and prescribed a strong analgesic. We did that and everything was fine for a week or so. One day when he was playing in the back yard with our other dog Rusty, he let out a yelp! His left front leg was basically unusable and it appeared to be “hanging” from his shoulder. It was awful to watch and I knew we were not talking about just arthritis. It continued to happen more and more often.
What happened in the next three weeks was a flood of vet visits and an emotional roller coaster. Knowing that it would help the lameness, our vet put Yogi on the steroid Prednisone; it made him a very different dog – he was hot, angry, constantly panting, ravenous, and so thirsty that he drank all water in sight; of course, he then had to eliminate every 3-4 hours. We had to hire a pet sitter to come in during the week just to let him out during the day and we had to schedule “middle of the night” outings so he could pee. He lost weight and muscle tone and looked very ragged; his personality changed drastically and he was not the same dog.
To try to get to the cause of his lameness, we went to a specialist who diagnosed “nerve root tumor” (a very dire prognosis) and recommended surgery/amputation with a preliminary MRI ($1300) to determine the extent of the tumor. We scheduled the MRI and then cancelled it after considering the costs, the benefits, and the possible complications. We went to another veterinary oncology surgeon who concurred with the diagnosis but recommended performing a CAT scan ($700) prior to possible surgery/amputation. We scheduled this for a day in late February.
Neither Yogi nor I slept much the night before. I knew it was a bad omen when, amidst yapping dogs, constant activity, and gruff receptionists, he had diarrhea in the waiting room. I told the doctor, through tears, that I couldn’t (and wouldn’t) put my dog through any more traumas. Many days and dollars later, we still had no good solution to Yogi’s situation.
What happened next is nothing short of a miracle. We went to our vet again, this time with the question, “Isn’t there some way to allow Yogi to live out the rest of his life, however long or short that is, in peace and quiet?” She referred us to Dr. Tracy Lord, explaining that she was a holistic vet who used natural cures and acupuncture; Dr. Lord had been able to help another client’s dog and our vet was pretty sure she could help Yogi. I called Dr. Lord the very next day!
It was a beautiful spring day in March when Yogi and I went to Williamsburg for our initial consultation. Immediately upon meeting Dr. Lord, I felt comfortable with her and I could tell Yogi did too! She listened intently to our story, looked at his referral information, asked me some questions, and then proceeded to talk to Yogi! She gave him an acupuncture treatment that he didn’t seem to mind! By the time we left her office, we had developed a plan of action including changes in diet, alternative drug therapy, natural supplements, and continued acupuncture sessions. I knew that this was the answer to our prayers!
Now, five months later, I can honestly say that Dr. Lord has transformed Yogi into a vibrant, healthy dog…even better than he was before! When I think about what we might have done if we had taken the advice of “traditional” veterinary science, I cringe and then thank my lucky stars that we found Dr. Lord. She is a loving, concerned person who has given us our dog back; he is whole, happy, and affectionate again.
He has not had a single episode of pain or limping since we began her course of treatment. He “talks” to her during his acupuncture sessions because he knows she makes him feel better…he has never done this before and he doesn’t do this with anyone else! No matter how much longer he is with us, I know that he is living a happy life. On a recent visit to the mountains of western NC, Yogi and I took a long walk: he was wagging his tail as he followed the scent of wild animals in the woods, splashed in the cool mountain stream, and just enjoyed being a dog! We have Dr. Lord to thank for that!
One of the most important things that we can do for pets is to feed them properly, and while it is not that difficult to achieve a balanced diet, it is a bit more complex when we use food to help achieve optimal health. In Traditional Chinese medicine, foods are looked at much like herbs. Foods can heal. Foods can balance or unbalance the body. All foods have energetic properties, and the foods you feed your pet will affect their constitution, their affect, and can help to alleviate or exasperate personality traits, disease symptoms, and behaviors. Hot natured pets will tend to do better with cooling or neutral foods as cold natured pets will do better with neutral to warming foods. Thus the question of what foods are best to feed my pet is not a “one size fits all” answer. The first thing you need to do is to determine whether your pet is hot or cold natured.
The yin and yang of pets
Some characteristics of a hot natured, yang, animal ….
These animals are often nervous and on edge. They may have a red tongue, pant excessivly and seek cool floors on which to lie. Often you will note that these animals have very poor energy in summer heat, and show signs of excessive thirst. They will avoid warm beds, couches or carpets. These animals tend to get more acute, sudden illnesses with intense symptoms which go as quickly as they came.
Some characteristics of a cold natured, yin, animal ……
These animals will be cool, calm and collected. They may have a pale tongue which is often wet. They may prefer warm places to sleep, or wish to be covered or cuddled for warmth. These animals generally do not like to be out in the winter but will bake themselves in the sun or in front of the fire place until you fear they may combust. Cold natured animals tend to be more slow moving and sleepy and may catch colds frequently.
The temperature of foods
Food also has tendencies toward yin or yang. The temperature or thermal nature of foods does not refer to the temperature at which the food is served, but the way the food makes the body feel once consumed. Cooling foods can cool both the body and the psyche. Conversely warming or hot foods will affect the entire body as well. Foods, like bodies, all have BOTH yin and yang properties, but some have more of one and some more of the other.
Warming foods are often used to aid digestion. They can also improve circulation and may help ease the pain of arthritis if it is worse in cold weather.
Cooling foods will calm the mind and cool the body. They can also be useful when inflammation is a problem.
Neutral foods are the harmonizers of the diet and are often added to balance or temper the more extreme qualities of other foods.
EXAMPLES OF WARMING FOODS
tuna, turkey, salmon, lamb, venison, chicken, chicken liver, shrimp, trout, oats, cabbage, squash, kale, quinoa, dried ginger
EXAMPLES OF COOLING FOODS
clams, duck, egg, tofu, prok, millet, barley, wheat, whole wheat bread, lettuce, celery, broccoli, spinach, tomato, kelp, banana
EXAMPLES OF NEUTRAL FOODS
beef, beef liver, chicken gizzards, rabbit, sardine, string beans, aduki beans, kidney beans, yam, polenta, rice, corn, rye, potato, beet, turnip, carrot, eggs, cod, brown rice
In addition to their thermal properties, foods can moisten or dry, clear excesses or stimulate in cases of deficiency.
FOODS THAT MOISTEN
potato, sardines, tofu, wheat, pork, mussel, citrus, barley, , string beans, dairy
FOODS THAT DRY
lettuce, turnip, asparagus, amaranth, rye, mackerel, celery, garlic
This is only the tip of the iceburg so far as the true qualities of foods go. Before choosing or changing a diet for your pet always consult with your veterinarian for recommendations and understand that each body is different. The simple question…what is the best diet for my pet???…. may not have a simple answer.
This will be enough food for one day for an average 25lb dog. A 50lb dog would get twice this amount and a 12lb dog would get half this amount. You can do the math for your dog’s weight.
Protein
You will need to feed 4 units of protein per day.
One unit of protein is equal to
2 oz meat or fish
1 medium egg
1/2 cup yogurt- note that 1/2 cup of yogurt counts as 1 unit of carbohydrate as well
1/3 cup cottage cheese- note that 1/2 cup of cottage cheese counts as 1 unit of carbohydrate as well
2 oz organ meat-you can feed up to one unit of organ meat several times a week if desired.
Carbohydrates
You will need to feed 4 units of carbohydrates per day
One unit of carbohydrate is equal to
1 cup vegetables such as-broccoli, brussel sprouts, greenbeans, peas, cabbage, spinich, squashes
1/2 cup fruits such as-melons, berries, bananas, tomatoes, apples. Also carrots at 1/2 cup.
1/4 cup cooked beans, lentils or chick peas
1/3 cup of grains such as-oatmeal or barley can be added if you wish. These are the best of the grains for a dog but note that grains in general are the least favorable type of carbohydrate for a dog. Try to limit this to one unit of the total amount fed per day if possible. You can also use whole wheat pasta or brown rice if needed.
Supplements
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 tablespoon bone meal
multivitamin as directed for body weight
1 capsule of fish oil unless feeding an oily fish such as salmon
500mg vit C
400 iu vit E
Please note that this diet will not be adequate or appropriate for all dogs. Be sure to check with your veterinarian before begining this or any other new diet for your dog.